New American Rum: mind the wave

Last week I spent four days at the American Distilling Institute's annual meeting in Louisville, Kentucky. This year's focus was on rum distilling. (I gave a short talk on rum history. And sold some books. See photo below.) This was chiefly a gathering of microdistillers, who seem to be happily growing in number by the day. And the rum focus this year drew folks out of the woodworks interested in making our great American spirit. I'm here to tell you that American rum seem to be poised to go big.

Most of the current rum microdistillers I knew about were here: Rogue from Oregon; Dogfish from Delaware; New Orleans Rum from, well, you know; Bardenay from Boise, Idaho; and Prichard's from Tennessee. Pirate's Choice also made an appearance (they market two rums, a lime flavored rum and an aged rum, both produced under contract by Phil Prichard). Maui rum was here in spirit, if not represented by a distiller.

But then there were the new kids on the block – or rather, the new kids visible down on the next block: Newport Storm brewery from Rhode island has been producing rum several weeks, putting some in the barrel and getting some ready to sell sooner as a white rum. It should be on the shelves this summer, although they're not yet revealing what the name is. They're looking to emphasize the historical connection of rum to New England – an idea so simple and powerful I'm puzzled that no one else has gotten there first.

Someone is on Newport Storm's heels, however. Another Newport, R.I., resident flew into the conference, with a head full of plans to start producing a New England rum and a whole bunch of domain names registered in advance. He's done a bunch of research on Rhode Island rum history, and was raring to go. Not surprisingly, he was a bit crestfallen to find out that someone had anticipated his idea, and was out of the gate ahead of him. But he insists he's still pushing on. I'll update as I hear more. (In the small world department: they're both graduates of the same college: Colby in Maine.)

I also spoke with a North Carolinian headed to New Mexico to distill a molasses-based rum on the Rio Grande south of Albuquerque. It will be called Rio Grande Rum; they haven't yet applied for permits, but they have a facility already. Rum and the southwest don't have much of a history, but he's made a connection, if with tongue a bit in cheek: Rum is from the Caribbean. The Rio Grande empties into the Gulf of Mexico. Slogan: It took 400 years to make it to the headwaters.

Green Bay Distilling in Wisconsin also has rum in the pipeline. They're producing a white rum that's aged six months then filtered, as well as one- and three-year rums aged in old bourbon barrels.

Those are the folks who are moving along. I met several others with ideas and lots of ambition, but as yet no facility nor permit nor firm timetable. But rum distilling seems to be seriously returning to American shores. Clearly, it's not just palm trees and piña coladas anymore.

I'll try to update as I get a chance to savor some of the New American Rums, and report back when some of those in the pipeline start to decant onto the shelves.