J.M heads north

Good rums are easier than ever to find in many liquor stores in North America. That's a welcome trend. Now great rums are becoming almost as easy to turn up. That's an even better trend.

Among those newly available: J.M Rhum from Martinique.

I was fortunate enough to visit the J.M distillery in Martinique when researching a story on rum for Saveur magazine last summer. It's a striking place, with its sugar cane grown on the slopes of the volcano just above the distillery, then hauled down by tractor each day during the cutting season. The master distiller, Nazaire Canataous, has been working here since 1972 when he was 17, and is the son of the former master distiller. He's a man who clearly loves his job, and his passion and experience shines through in the product. Perhaps the single best sip of rum of many I had on Martinique was the 15-year-old J.M, and the 10-year old rum was a close runner-up.

The 10-year is now available in the United States. It's a barrel-proof, cask-strength rum that has a touch of sweetness but without burned-sugar notes. Benjamin Jones, who distributes J.m and Clement rums in the United States, says that he compares the Clement with cognac, and J.M with armagnac. I'd have to say that's not just marketing hype, but accurate.

J.M has been in the U.S. markets only since the beginning of this year, and for now can be found largely on the east coast – including most New England markets. It's due to roll out soon in Illinois, Colorado, Arizona, and California.

Look for it. Be pleased.